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THE BRICK STITCH:
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1.
Begin brick stitch with a ladder of seed or bugle beads: Pick up 2
beads. Leave a 6-8-in. tail (15-20cm) and go through both beads again in
the same direction. Pull the top bead down so the beads are side by
side. The thread exits the bottom of bead #2. String bead #3 and go back
through #2 from top to bottom. Come back up through bead #3.
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2.
String bead #4. Go through #3 from bottom to top and #4 from top to
bottom. Add odd-numbered beads like #3 and even-numbered beads like #4.
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3.
To stabilize the ladder, zigzag back through it.
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4.
Begin each row so no thread shows on the edge: String 2 seed beads. Go
under the thread between the 2nd and 3rd beads on the ladder from back
to front. Pull tight. Go up the 2nd bead added then down the first. Come
back up the second bead again.
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5.
For the remaining stitches on each row, pick up 1 bead at a time. Pass
the needle under the next loop on the row below from back to front and
go back through the new bead.
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The
Two-Bead Square Stitch:
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1.
String 4 beads and go through all 4 again in the same direction.
Position the beads so there are 2 rows of 2 beads each.
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2.
To weave the third and subsequent rows, string 2 beads and place them
next to the previous 2 beads. Go through the previous 2 beads and
through the last 2 beads again in the same direction. Turn the work over
as needed for comfort.
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The
Two-Drop Peyote Stitch:
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Work
two-drop peyote stitch just like peyote stitch, but treat every pair of
beads as if it were a single bead.
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1.
Start with an even number of beads divisible by four. Go through the
first 2 beads to the left of the knot. Pick up 2 beads (stitch 1 of row
3), skip 2 beads and go through the next 2 beads. Repeat around.
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2. SInce you started with a multiple of four beads, you'll need to work
a "step up" to begin the next row. Go through the first pairs
of beads on rows 2 and 3. Pick up 2 beads and go through the second pair
of row 3 beads; continue around. (Note: If you begin with an even number
of beads not divisible by four, there isn't a step up; you'll keep
spiraling.)
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The
Flat Peyote Stitch (odd count):
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1.
Begin as for flat peyote (even count), but string an odd number of
beads. Work row 3 as shown in No. 2 flat peyote, even count. Since the
first two rows total an odd number of beads, you won't have a place to
attach the last bead on odd-numbered rows.
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2.
Work a figure-8 turn at the end of row 3, which will position you to
start row 4: String the next-to-the-last bead (#7) and go through #2
(dot) then #1. String the last bead (#8) and go through #2, #3, #7, #2,
#1, and #8. You can continue to work this turn at the end of each
odd-numbered row, but this edge will be stiffer than the other. Use the
figure on the left to turn on subsequent odd-numbered rows.
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3.
String the last bead of the row then loop through the edge thread
immediately below. Go through the last bead to begin the new row. The
turn at the end of even-numbered rows is as shown (figure left).
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Flat
Peyote Stitch (even count)
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With
all bead weaving stitches, tension is the key to excellent results. For
most projects, you'll want to weave with a gentle, even tension that
results in a supple bead fabric. If you're tense or nervous, your
tension will reflect it, and your beadwork will be stitch. However, for
sculptural beadwork, you usually need to use the tightest tension you
can manage.
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1.
String one bead and loop through it again in the same direction, leaving
a 6 to 8 in. (15-20cm) tail. String more beads to total an even number.
These beads comprise the first two rows. (As you weave, the beads of the
new row will nestle into the spaces between the beads on the previous
row. Remove the extra loop and weave the tail into the beadwork later.)
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2.
Every other bead from the figure above drops down half a space to form
row 1. To begin row 3, (count the rows diagonally) pick up a bead and
stitch through the second bead from the end. Pick up a bead and go
through the fourth bead from the end. Continue in this manner. End by
going through the first bead strung.
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3.
To start row 4 and all other rows, pick up a bead and go through the
last bead added on the previous row.
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4.
End threads by weaving through the work in a zigzag path. Begin threads
the same way, exiting the last bead added in the same direction.
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Two-Needle
Start: Take the tension out of starting a peyote stitch By Barbara L.
Grainger:
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How many times have you tried to start a peyote stitch project and
found yourself with a tangled mess, vowing you'll never try to do
peyote stitch again? I know just how it feels. Several years ago I
found Judith Glassman's two-needle start in her book, Step By Step
Beadcraft. I've used it often with great success. This method builds
the first three rows at once. My students have all been thrilled at
how easy it makes starting a peyote project - even in the middle.
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1. 
Note: these directions are for peyote stitching from the bottom up. To
peyote stitch from the top down, transpose row 1 and row 3 so that row
1 is on top. Thread two needles onto a single thread, one at each end.
Pick up 2 beads: a row 1 bead on the bottom needle and a row 3 bead on
the top needle. Slide them both to the center of the thread sitting
side by side (figure left).
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2. 
Pick up the next row 2 bead and pass both needles through it at the
same time in the same direction. Pull the bead next to the first two
beads (figure left).
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3. 
Pick up 2 beads, the next row 3 bead on the top needle and the row 1
bead on the bottom needle, and pull them next to the single bead with
#3 above #1. You may need to persuade the beads to sit properly by
holding both threads and gently pushing them toward the single bead
(figure left). Keep an even tension. Repeat steps 2 and 3 until the
piece is as wide as needed.
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4. 
For even count flat peyote - End with a single bead as in No. 3 above.
Drop the bottom needle and use the top one as the working thread to
begin row 4 (figure left).
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5. 
For odd count flat peyote - End with 2 beads as in figure 3. Pass the
needle from row 3 into the last bead of row 1, heading back toward the
work. Tie this thread off or use it later. Pass the needle from row 1
into the last bead of row 3, heading back toward the work and use it
to begin row 4 (figure left).
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6. 
For tubular peyote, even count - Build the first three rows as for
flat peyote, even count. Make a tube by bringing the beginning beads
around to meet the last bead added. Make sure the strip isn't twisted.
Then pass the bottom needle through the first bead in row 1 and the
top needle through the first bead in row 3. Knot the bottom thread
around the thread between beads #1 and #2. Use the top needle as the
working thread to begin row 4 (figure left).
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7. 
For tubular peyote, odd count - Build the first three rows as for flat
peyote, odd count. Join into a tube as above, but pass both needles
through the first bead in row 3. Knot the bottom thread around the
thread between beads #3 and #2. Use the top needle to begin row 4
(figure left).
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The
Right Angle Weave:
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1. 
To start the first row, sting 4 beads and tie the thread into a snug
circle. Pass the needle through the first 3 beads again. (Maintain a
firm tension to form the distinctive cross shape.)
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2. 
Pick up 3 more beads(#5, 6, and 7) and sew back through the last bead
of the previous circle and beads #5 and 6.
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3. 
Pick up 3 more beads and sew back through #6 and the first 2 new
beads. Continue adding 3 beads for each stitch until the first row is
the desired length. You are sewing circles in a figure-eight pattern
and alternating the direction with each stitch.
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4. 
To begin row 2, sew through the last 3 beads of the last stitch on row
1, exiting the bead at the edge of one long side.
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5. 
Pick up 3 beads and sew back through the bead you exited in figure 4
(the first "top" bead of row 1) and the first new bead.
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6. 
Pick up 2 beads and sew back through the next top bead of the previous
row and the last bead of the previous stitch.
Keep the thread moving in a figure-eight pattern. Pick up 2 beads for
the remaining stitches on the row. Don't sew straight between
stitches.
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Daisy
Stitch:
To complete this project you will need:
- 2 colors of size 11° seed beads (red and yellow in this example)
- nymo
- size 12 needle
- clasp
Start with as long a piece of doubled thread as you can handle. Wax it after
you thread your needle because you want the two sides to stick together. You may
either add the clasp now, or leave a long enough tail to add it later. Pick up 6
red beads and tie them in a loop. Pick up one yellow bead and go through the
upper right hand bead on the other side of the loop. Pick up 2 yellow beads and
go up through the two red beads on the right hand side of your first flower and
back down through the two yellow beads you just added.
Pick up 4 more yellow beads and go down though the top bead of the two yellow
beads added previously forming a loop. Pick up 1 red bead and pass your
needle through the top of the second of the two yellow beads on the right hand
side of the loop.
As you can see, both the yellow and the red daisies are created in essentially
the same way except for the position of your thread at the start and the bead
you go through when adding the center bead. These positions alternate each
time. When adding the center bead, always go through the bead diagonal to the
bead you are coming out of. This is actually very intuitive when you've got the
beads in your hands. Trust me! Just continue this pattern until you reach the
length you want and add your clasp. I like to use a small loop of beads through
the hole in the clasp rather than just tying it on. Loop back through a couple
of daisies to hide the end and provide extra security. Good luck, and happy
beading!
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